Since my last ‘I’m loving India’ post there has been drama and intrigue, and the group has been irrevocably (but not unwelcomely) split forever.

The day we departed Delhi started pleasantly enough with an 0430 departure from the hotel for Delhi station (OK, this was not exactly ‘pleasant’ and I never even knew there were two 4 o’clocks in the day, but whatever – cup half full, and all that).  The sights and sounds of the station were less chaotic than I remembered (‘have I told you I’ve been to Delhi Station before?’) with fewer people sleeping on the platform and less crowds jostling for position as the trains pulled in.

Your chariot awaits Ma’am

The train takes about 4.5 hours to chug from Delhi to Jaipur (I know this, because I’ve done it before, obviously) and provides us with an opportunity to sit back and relax with ketchup sandwiches and our first views (for some, obviously) of rural India and the countryside we will be cycling through.  Although the train is an experience, I can’t help wondering why we are spending so many days of the itinerary not cycling; I’m sure we could have flown straight to Jaipur and started cycling sooner.  It’s not the end of the world though, and at least this gives the group time to acclimatise to India and see some of the main attractions of this crazy country.  I’m happy anyway, even though I’ve seen it all before, obviously.

In Jaipur things start to get less settled for a couple in the group.  It’s clear there is some unhappiness; and it’s actually hard to work out honestly whether this is a problem with the itinerary and the length of time spent sightseeing or whether India has proved to be a step too far in cultural diversity for those concerned.  As the rest of us are happy (although itching to get going), and from overhearing frankly inappropriate comments it’s clear India is not agreeing with everyone.

After arrival, we visit the City Palace and Jantar Mantar where the Virgos can’t help but boast about their purity and the group starts to bond over conversations about poo, toilets and mosquito bites.

Four Wise Virgos

By the evening though, people were talking about leaving, and by the next morning two flights had been booked out of Jaipur for that very day.  That’s before we’d even done any cycling.  I struggled to understand why you could come all this way to cycle through India and not even give it a chance.  I was sad for them and for the group, although to be honest that particular departure meant the rest of us could be free to just jolly well get on with it and enjoy India.

The magnificent Amber Fort is the last stop on the sightseeing itinerary before cycling commences.  I’m delighted it is’t raining (unlike last time) and less delighted that an elephant ride is included for us.

Amber Fort – Jaipur

I had read an article that suggested that the elephants aren’t treated very well; encouraging tourists not to use them to travel the short distance to the Fort.  It’s a brisk 10 minute walk up hill and well within the capability of even the most unfit of Western tourists.  I’m still cross with myself while writing this that I didn’t stick to my guns and walk up anyway.  I wanted to stay with the group and share the group experience; but I did this at the expense of my principles – something I’m not particularly proud of.  I bought the pictures taken of me smiling whilst riding the elephant to remind me that you can’t mask cruelty with a smile, and I will forever wish I had walked up beside the elephant and not on it.

The Elephants of the Amber Fort

Finally, once down from the Fort where we visited all the places I had seen before, the group formed a circle in the beautiful grounds and held a two minutes silence as today is Armistice Day.  For me, this was second only to Remembrance Sunday in Ypres last year in poignancy and occasion.  I know I will think of this moment on the 11th of the 11th at 11:02 every year.

And now it’s time… the sightseeing is over for now, the group has got smaller and noticeably happier, and cycling is about to commence!