1st June 2009
The ferry to Gudvangen at the other end of the Aurlandsfjord took 2 hours each way, with a 20 minute stop at the end point before turning back again, and was another journey where everywhere was so beautiful you just didn’t know where to look.
I had contemplated not coming straight back, but booking the next ferry which was 2 and a half hours later so I could explore the town at the other end. On the advice of the tourist office I didn’t do this, and was mighty relieved – Gudvangen seemed to be a harbour at the end of the fjord, with nothing else there save a restaurant and two souvenir shops. Three coaches were parked just beyond the restaurant, and as we streamed off the ferry, most people got on a coach and headed straight off for their next section of a well known whistle stop tour of Norway.
I on the other hand, wandered around the tourist tat in the shops, sat on the quay for a bit, and after 15 minutes, boarded the same ferry to make the journey back to Flåm.
Another stunning journey back. Different as the light changed, and the people on board changed. Chinese tourist groups on the way out – women in Prada and Dior, and men in suits, and more laid back travellers with backpacks on the way back. The second crowd were more interested in drinking in the scenery than rushing from side to side of the boat to get the best snap on their Nikons.
I spent the afternoon on a 7km hike to the church in Flåm Old Town, detouring on the way up to Brekkefossen waterfall. I had wondered if the climb would be worth it as I scrambled up the rocks, thinking just how much moaning I would be doing out loud if Nige was with me. I didn’t see a soul for about an hour after leaving the hostel and starting the hike, when all of a sudden an Australian couple were striding down the mountain towards me. I asked if the climb was worth it – to which they both replied that it was.
Another 10 minutes or so of climbing and there they were! The path came out just below midway and the falls were crashing down the mountain – stunningly beautiful and dramatic.
Both the view at the waterfall, and the beauty of the church were both worth the effort, so I was not disappointed.
It was close to 1800 before I was back at the quay and drinking another mega-bucks beer. But, again, I’d totally earned it!
I sit now, on the balcony of the hostel, watching the sun go down as I sip tea stolen from the train. I say stolen – I had paid for endless tea and coffee; it just so happened that 4 tea bags, milk and two cups happened to find their way into my rucksack instead of being consumed on the 5 hour journey! Again, I don’t feel very rock and roll sitting drinking Twinings English Breakfast Tea as I sit and watch the sunset, but hey-ho!
2nd June 2009
Time to head home.
My first hostel experience was now officially over. My room had been what could only be described as ‘compact and bijou’. In fact, it can actually be described as a ‘compact and bijou sauna’ being wall-to-wall varnished pine. I kept expecting the door to open at any moment and a towel clad (but not for long) Norwegian pensioner to enter and throw some water on the coals in the corner. During the last two nights, the other five rooms in the block had been filled with Japanese students, none of which ever sat in the communal area or made any eye contact – they just came and went randomly without talking much to eachother, let alone me (who was secretly hoping for some 70’s hippy style singing round the camp fire and sharing dodgy cigarettes into the wee small hours). I’m hoping I was just unlucky, and I have big expectations of my next hostel stay planned for the summer.
I left Flåm on the 0835 Flåmsbana back to Myrdal, and on from there back to Oslo.
This time, when the train stopped at the waterfall stop, knowing it was coming, I jumped off the train first and managed a pic before the train full of Japanese tourists had even got up from their seats.
On arriving at Oslo, I had a further 3 hours to kill before heading back to Torp on the bus, so I wandered the sights I hadn’t managed the first day, and just chilled out in a cafe until it was time to board the bus again.
The flight was early, and I’d had a brilliant time, but it was good to be home.





